The beauty of southern Malawi

While we were at Msandile, we met Sabine & Frank and Marja & Ruud. Having lived in or travelled through Malawi, they all had a lot of information they shared with us. This was invaluable and we happily took note of their tips. Based on all the information, our first stop would be in Thyolo. This area below Blantyre is famous for its large tea plantations. 

The road from Lilongwe to Thyolo would take about 6 hours, including some additional time because we drive quite carefully compared to most locals. We had learned from our previous trips and we planned two stopovers. The first stopover was in a town called Dedza. The Dedza pottery is famous for its beautiful ceramics and lovely coffee. We enjoyed a nice cup of coffee and ordered some packed lunch. Together with a quick visit to the pottery (of which we forgot to take pictures of course), it was a great stop and we continued the trip with extra energy. 

Our second stop was along the road. We stopped at a restaurant, ordered some cola and ate our packed lunch. The stop itself was not very special, but we were able to relax, eat and continue again with a fresh dose of energy. Before we knew it, we were at the Thyolo house.

Our stay at the Thyolo house was wonderful and as soon as we arrived, we were sad to only spend one night here (the downside of pre-booking this part of the trip). The apartment was huge and there was a lovely pool. We were the only guests who wanted to go to the pool, so we had the pool to ourselves. 

The property also has some walking trails, so we decided to go for a walk and see if we could spot some birds. The walk was lovely, but we didn't see a lot of birds. We heard many though! After the walk, we had a great shower and an amazing dinner. The table was decorated with several flowers from the beautiful garden and we were told they had good Italian food (the owner is Italian) and the food did not disappoint. Everything was delicious but the dessert was AMAZING. We were bummed that we had to leave the next day.

The following morning we had a delicious breakfast and we decided to at least stay for lunch. That allowed us to dive in the pool and do some work for the rest of the trip. Going back to Kenya means traveling through Tanzania, for which we need a visa, and entering Kenya, for which we need an ETA. Both processes can be really quick, but they can also take some time. 

We applied for the Kenyan ETA and it was received within an hour. Regarding the Tanzanian visa, we preferred to get a visa on arrival as we had no idea how long the online process would take. We would need some cash dollars, but they are nowhere to be found in Malawi. Fortunately, we know someone who has a lodge and gets paid in dollars from time to time, so we asked if they could swap some euros into dollars. They agreed and even invited us to stay with them about a week later, on our way up north. We happily agreed.

Satisfied with the work we had done, we enjoyed another amazing Italian meal and we went on to our next stop.

The next stop was only an hour away, so despite leaving in the afternoon, we still arrived quite early. The next stop was Likhubula Hiker's Nest, on the foot of Mount Mulanje. From this place, we would start our hike up the mountain the next day. We took our time to rearrange our bags and made sure we had one bag to go with the porter, with our clothes and toiletries and we both had a backpack with our daily requirements. After dinner, we went to bed early. Jeroen needed to buy some internet and was quite surprised.

Mobile Internet has been invaluable for our trip. Whether it is Google Maps, looking up places to stay, or just blogging and uploading pictures, we use up a lot of Internet. In some places, like Namibia and Botswana, Internet is quite expensive. In those countries, we bought small bundles and mostly relied on WiFi or downloaded maps and other info. In other countries, like Zambia, Internet was quite cheap and we could more easily rely on the mobile network. However, nothing beats the price in Malawi (at least for the countries we visited). Jeroen bought 20 GBs (valid for a week) for the equivalent of less than 3 euros. When he checked his balance, he saw a total balance of 65 GB all valid for a week. He had received several 'bonuses' for a total of 45 GB's. The original 20 GB's were probably already more than we could finish, but 65 GB's was definitely like unlimited Internet. At least, when there is a connection...

The next day we were up and about at 6 AM. Our contact, Snowden, who had briefed us the day before, joined us at around 6:30 and introduced the team. The team consisted of a guide, a cook and a porter respectively called, and we are not making this up, Edson, Kenson, and Damson. We introduced ourselves, made sure we had everything with us, locked the car to stay at the Hiker's nest, and then we took off.

From left to right: Kenson, Jeroen, Emma, Edson, Damson

Our goal was to climb to the highest peak, Sapitwa. The first day we would climb for about 6 hours to our first mountain hut. On the second day, we would leave at 2 AM to hike 3 hours to the top, just in time for sunrise. Then after relaxing we would descend back to the first mountain hut, have breakfast, and hike for 3 hours to get to the second hut. From there, we would descend back to Hiker's Nest in 3 hours. Easy peasy.

The hike started with a very steep ascent and our heart rates immediately exploded. We learned the Chichewa phrase for 'short break' (tipume pangono), but with our hearts beating so fast it was difficult to remember. The views were amazing and we loved the hike. We were badly out of shape and in need of this exercise. Then, we were humbled to our core.

On the very steep path, we saw many people coming down with bundles of firewood. We were struggling with our little backpacks and they were coming down with tens of kilos of firewood on their heads. First, we saw men. Then came the women, and even children. 

We have traveled a lot. We have seen riches and we have seen a lot of poverty, in many variations. But even so, this was something that stuck to us in a way that is difficult to describe. The people coming down the mountain with huge bundles of heavy firewood woke up at 2 AM to climb the mountain for 3 hours or more. They then collected the firewood to carry those very heavy bundles on their head for another 3 or 4 hours, most of them barefooted. After this, they would rest for the day. The next day they would take the firewood, again often barefooted, to the village to sell the firewood. 2 days of extremely hard labour for the equivalent of 1 euro per bundle of firewood, even done by children who should be in school. Without any welfare system or social security system, all of them have no other option. This humbled us and it reminded us, again, how extremely lucky we are to have been born in a wealthy country. In a Western country where not everything is perfect, we still have not so much to complain actually. We also didn't feel the pain of the ascent anymore. If they can do that, often without breakfast, we should be able to just climb this mountain without complaining.

We wanted to take a photo of people carrying the bundles of firewood, if not as a reminder, then at least to show ourselves and others how tough life is for some of the people we share the world with. We wanted to randomly ask someone to take their picture and offer some money for their troubles. It would have felt unfair to all others though, as so many of them carried these heavy burdens (literally) to feed their families. We settled on not taking a portrait of someone carrying the bundles, but on taking a picture from the back, protecting their privacy and dignity, and still showing what tough conditions so many of them go through.

We continued the ascent on this beautiful mountain. The views were spectacular and the weather was wonderful. It wasn't too sunny, but still nice and warm. We passed little valleys and creeks and slowly made our way up after the steep ascent. Right on schedule, we arrived at our lunch spot. The cook and porter had passed us just before the spot and set up the 'bush kitchen'. After a nice sandwich and some rest, we continued our way to the first mountain hut. We talked with our guide as much as possible. His English was quite limited, which made the conversations not spectacular, but it was nice to learn some things about the surroundings. 

After lunch, as we came closer to the first mountain hut, the weather slowly started to take a turn for the worse. It started with a large mist. Then as we progressed, it turned into rain. With wind picking up, the rain got heavier, until we finally reached the hut. On the way, however, the paths became slippery due to the rain. Emma slipped and fell, hurting her ankle and her knee (an old injury). Due to the pain, mostly in her knee, it didn't feel like a good idea to climb to Sapitwa the next day. Hiking to the next mountain hut would be tough enough.

Two guys were already at the hut, taking the right side. We took the left half. We would have decided how to divide the hut if someone else would have come, which didn't happen. We took some of the mattresses and chef Kenson claimed a corner with a table to be the storage room for his kitchen. We 'showered' with a bucket and a scoop and had the rest of the afternoon to relax.

Firstly, we sat outside on the verandah playing some games, reading, and doing sudokus. The rain didn't subside and even got worse. Feeling cold, we retreated into the hut and relaxed in our sleeping bags. Kenson cooked a delicious dinner and we tried to go to bed early. As there was no electricity and sunset was around 5:30 PM in Malawi, it was completely dark at 6 PM.

At night, the weather didn't improve. The rains and wind even seemed to increase in strength by the hour. We woke up many times by a gust of icy and moist air during the night and each time we were glad we had decided not to go to the peak. We fell back asleep, only to be woken up a little later by another gust of cold and moist air. At 2:30 AM, the time we were supposed to start our ascent, the weather seemed to be at its worst. Fortunately, we could turn around for another few minutes of sleep.

The next morning, at around 5:30 AM, the sun came up, although we still only saw clouds and mist, and it was time to get up as well. We had a nice bowl of jungle porridge and packed our stuff. It was then that we realised that the window just half a meter above our heads as we slept, did not contain any glass. So that is where the cold and wet wind came from...

At 6:30, the weather had not yet improved. We still had to leave, to be at the next hut before lunch. The huts are on a first-come, first serve basis, not turning down anyone who arrives. That means that if you want a nice place to sleep, one with actual glass windows, better be there early. Despite the rain, we left for another hike. We soon reached the first barrier.

Rain falling at the top of the mountain, always finds its way down. What was a rocky road the day before, had now turned into a river over slippery rocks. Edson went ahead and found a way to cross this new river, quickly followed by us, Kenson, and Damson.

After this new river, we had a steep ascent and then a steep descent. The rains slowly faded, as we moved towards the other side of the mountain. Fortunately, after about an hour, we reached the part without any rain. Still cloudy and misty, some of the peaks seemed like islands in the sky, giving a wonderful and eerie sight.

After another 2 hours of hiking without any rain, we reached the second hut, the first two to arrive. This hut was much bigger, consisting of 2 rooms. There was a bedroom, in which we quickly took the best two spots, and a living area with a fireplace for boiling water and keeping warm. The caretaker immediately wanted to make a fire for us as soon as we arrived.

All huts are looked after by a caretaker. The caretakers keep the huts clean, safe, and warm. In some huts, they sell drinks like cola and beer. They also boil water to have a shower. This shower is always a bucket in a small, open cabin. The water is wonderfully hot, but as soon as you are wet, a gust of wind immediately cools you down again. It was wonderful to have these showers as part of the hiking and mountain hut experience. We were happy though, that we can have running hot water showers whenever we want in the Netherlands.

In the meantime, Chef Kenson cooked us another 5-star bush meal. With very limited supplies he produces a delicious vegetable omelet and French fries. Kenson was a good chef and what we are not used to in many countries, was his proactiveness. He asked us many times if he could make us some snacks, tea, or coffee. This was a first, and we happily enjoyed it. 

The entire afternoon at hut 2, the weather was quite bad. It was very misty and from time to time it rained. This meant we spent our time playing board games, doing sudokus, and reading. It was quite relaxing, but we would have liked to see a bit more of the surroundings and walk around a bit more. 

A big plus compared to hut 1, was that this hut had electricity. It is therefore a popular hut, and another hiker also arrived. As we quickly cleaned up our stuff so she would have space as well and didn't come to a fully claimed cabin, she arrived in the rain. After a look around, she and her guide decided to go to another hut, just a few hundred meters away. They preferred a private hut and although we would have made her feel completely welcome if she stayed, we did like the privacy of having our 'own' hut. Kenson made us a delicious dinner and we went to bed early again. We have grown used to going to bed early and we love it. 

The next morning the skies were clear. With a room in which all windows had glass, we slept great. We were happy to wake up and go for the last hike. We had another jungle porridge and were ready to go. All we had to do was fill our bottles with the metallic mountain water.

The water on the mountain is drinkable, but mostly after it has been boiled. The water is boiled in kettles on fire. As they are used on open fire very often, all kettles are pitch black. We often found black particles in our water and the water had a very metallic taste. We are still unsure if the taste is due to the kettles in which the water is boiled, or whether there is a lot of iron in the mountain water, giving it the special taste.

We left for the last hike in happy spirits. We had enjoyed the previous days and nights, but we were also happy to hike the last stretch and go to our next adventures. The hike was almost completely downhill, which took a heavy toll on our legs and Emma's injured knee in particular. We took a lot of small breaks to relieve the legs. This didn't seem to be of any importance to our guide. He was simply walking a few dozen meters in front of us, waited a little when we needed a break, and continued way ahead of us when he noticed we started walking again. After 3 hours, we reached the hiker's nest again. 

The entire trail was beautiful and the hikes were amazing. We loved being outdoors, active, and struggling from time to time. We saw some spectacular views, despite leaving Mount Mulanje without even having seen Sapitwa Peak, the peak which we planned to climb. Due to the consistent fog we had around hut 1, Sapitwa Peak had remained invisible to us. Still, we had a great time, followed by a delicious pizza in Mulanje town, arranged by Snowden. Pizza and a Kuche Kuche (local beer) for lunch was a great way to end this 3-day adventure.